The Lower Bashkaus - Gorges, Campfires and Vodka!
Published by Tom August 17th, 2007 in BUKEThe gorge of the Lower Bashkaus has a reputation as one of the hardest runs in the former Soviet Union. Although only 25 miles long we were recommended to allow four days to run it (or two weeks if you’re a Russian rafter!). The gorge is extremely committing; there is only one possible escape point up onto the high surrounding plateau. A couple of weeks before our descent a group of Russian kayakers were in the gorge when the river rose by two metres. One of the team attempted to walk out and has not been seen since.
With all this stigma surrounding the river we were rather apprehensive as we approached the get in. Thankfully we were blessed with low levels and beautiful turquoise water. Once again we set off early afternoon for the 20 mile float into the gorge with Igor ‘The Bod’ filming us in his ‘wonder pants’. As the canyon walls began to close in around us there were few places to camp, we pushed on with the aim of reaching a known campsite. A small tributary, the Onysh, joins the river and the canyon open outs slightly; the single previously mentioned escape route. At 7.30pm we were running the first major rapids of the gorge some nice class 4+ slaloming between large fluffy holes, or so they looked in the evening light. We reached the Onysh camp at 8pm pleased to have broken the back of the paddle in and leaving ourselves well positioned for the hardest section of the river the next day.
An early start next morning we soon hit the big rapids with a nasty looking 5+, The Key, clearly marked by a big metal reflector in the cliff, a memorial to catarafter who died there. Several km nice clean class 4, a boulder choke and another memorial to a deceased rafter lead to another long messy 5+ and a hard portage for half the team, The Meatgrinder. We were looking forward to lunch at “The Chicken Leg Tavern” a campsite under an overhang full of memorials and a guestbook, which everyone who runs the river signs. Unfortunately we missed the spot so we have given our message to Russian paddlers who will stick in the book next time they paddle the river.
Great clean class 4/5 continued through the afternoon with plenty of big holes and a few comedy lines. We bumped into the Russian kayakers dubbed ‘River Zoo’ (www.riverzoo.ru) who were looking for their lost friend. They informed us we had less than half a day’s paddle to the end of the gorge! We stopped to camp early at a nice campsite and phoned through to Igor on the SAT phone to tell him to meet us two days early at the get out!
Next morning we exited the gorge at the Chebdar confluence and were invited for tea with some campers who turned out to include members rock band from Omsk, we all got rather overexcited with a feast of fresh bread dipped in baked beans, coffee and of course vodka; a great end to a memorable river.
Despite our quick descent the Bashkaus should not be taken lightly and we could easily see how with higher water it would become significantly harder, a more serious proposition in such a remote gorge.
As always you can see the rest of our photos in our gallery here…











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